What's your skin type?

Photo by Davide Gallizio and Imaxtree.com 

Most of us know which skin type we have and how to treat it with the appropriate products. What many don't know is that an individual's skin changes throughout life, which is why it's necessary to understand all skin types and conditions. Internal factors that influence skin changes include genetic predisposition, hormonal changes, health issues, medications being taken, diet, and personal habits. External influences include climate/weather, skin care routine, products being used, and unprotected or prolonged sun exposure.

Skin types are categorized as dry, normal, combination, and oily, and are based primarily on how much oil (sebum) is produced in the skin. Although not considered skin types, dehydrated skin and sensitive skin are common skin conditions that I will highlight as well.

Dry--lack of oil produced in the skin, characterized by small follicles (pores). The natural oil secretions in our follicles help protect us from environmental damage and aging. Dry skin needs extra care because it lacks this normal protection. If your skin is dry, it will feel tight after cleansing and even tighter if you don’t moisturize. Extremely dry skin is very uncomfortable and may even flake or itch. Consider taking an oral supplementation of essential fatty acids, such as omega-3, and use a gentler, less-stripping cleanser (cream form rather than gel or bar soap).

Dehydrated--skin that lacks water. While common for those with dry skin, dehydration is a condition that can be seen with all skin types. Dehydrated skin can look thin or flaky and can feel tight and dry. This condition is also common among those with oily and acne-prone skin who use harsh products that strip the skin of water, such as those containing benzoyl peroxide.

Normal--ideal and least problematic skin type which has good oil-water balance. Follicles are a normal size and circulation is good, with a healthy complexion.

Combination--areas of skin are oilier and/or drier than other areas. It is common for the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin area) to be oily and the cheeks to be dry. Combination skin needs to be balanced and often requires more care than normal skin, possibly even treating each area separately. Topical vitamin A is very useful as a skin "normalizer" and can be used on both oily and dry areas of combination skin.

Oily--excess of oil (sebum), characterized by large follicles and shiny skin, especially in the T-zone. Oily skin is more prone to blemishes because the larger pores often get clogged with oil and buildup of dead skin cells. On a positive note, oily skin ages more slowly because of the protection provided by oil secretions. Water-based hydrators and products containing salicylic acid are best for balancing oily skin.

Sensitive--skin condition characterized by fragile, thin skin and redness. People with sensitive skin have to be extra careful about what they put on their skin. It can be easily irritated by fragrances, parabens (preservatives), dyes, and even chemicals in certain sunscreens. It's important to use products specifically made for sensitive skin, which are usually gentler and non-irritating.

As basic as this information may seem, it's essential to know and recognize our ever-changing skin! Please feel free to share questions and comments; I'd love to help you achieve your skin goals!

Oh ya, and remember to lather up with a broad spectrum sunscreen!

xo, Brittany

Get rejuven-A-ted!

Photo source: elle.com

Oral supplementation of vitamins is important, but is not enough to treat skin intensively. We also need topical skin care products that contain active vitamins!

Among the essential skin vitamins, vitamin A is the most vital in the maintenance of youthful, healthy skin. It gives us that ever-sought-after "glow." It is also essential for the growth and maintenance of hair, nails, teeth and bones.

Topical vitamin A has both anti-aging AND anti-acne benefits, including increasing cell turnover rate (exfoliating dead and damaged skin cells on surface), decreasing pore size, reducing bacteria accumulation, increasing the skin's metabolism (removing toxins and delivering more oxygen to the skin), boosting collagen production, "plumping" and filling out fine lines and wrinkles!

There are a few forms of vitamin A, but they all essentially have the same rejuvenative properties. These active chemical derivatives include Retinoic acid or Tretinoin (Retin A), Retinol, Retinyl palmitate and Retinyl acetate. The most easily tolerated by the skin (and best for sensitive skin types) are Retinyl palmitate and Retinyl acetate.

When first starting a vitamin A product, irritation, breakouts and skin peeling may occur. However, as the surface of the cell walls develop more retinoid receptors, your skin will adjust to the vitamin concentration and the irritation will disappear.

It takes a couple weeks for skin to acclimate to a new product and even more time for skin to start showing the benefits of the product. One way to help skin adjust to retinoids is to start slowly (2-3 times per week for the first few weeks, then gradually increase to recommended dosing of once or twice daily).

Also keep in mind, retinoids are easily degraded by exposure to light, heat, air and moisture, so purchase a product that is in an opaque (non-transparent) container and has controlled distribution (a pump is great!).

One last note: vitamin A may cause photosensitivity (sensitivity to sun exposure), so don't forget to lather up with a broad spectrum sunscreen!

xo, Brittany

Winter Woes

Photo by Felix Lammers

The skin is the largest organ of the body and is susceptible to many environmental factors, including weather changes. During the winter season, skin naturally loses 25% more moisture than in the summer. To survive these cold winter months, we often turn up the heat in the home and car, use electric blankets and space heaters, take long, scolding hot showers, and pile on additional layers of clothing. Unfortunately, these habits tend to exacerbate dry skin conditions.

Here's the good news: skin has the amazing ability to regenerate itself! It sheds the dead, dehydrated cells that lie on its surface to make room for new, living, cells to rise. If the dead skin cells are not shedding efficiently however, the cell turnover slows, which further impairs the skin’s natural protective ability. This allows for environmental irritants like bacteria and pollution to sneak in, causing inflammation and blemishes.

Well-moisturized skin provides a protective barrier that is more resistant to irritation, infection, heat and cold. Choosing a moisturizer or serum containing hyaluronic acid, which holds up to 1000 times its own weight in water, allows replenishing of the skin’s own natural hydration levels.

Another essential ingredient to incorporate into your skin care regimen is an alpha hydroxy acid. Look for glycolic or lactic acid listed as one of the first few ingredients. AHAs promote natural exfoliation of the dead and dying cells of the outermost layer of the skin by dissolving the intercellular “glue” between these cells. The cells beneath are newer, fresher and well hydrated.

A few last tips: avoid over-drying skin care products that list alcohol as one of the first two ingredients; use a humidifier at your desk or near your bed at night; keep hydrated by drinking plenty of water, and always lather up with a broad spectrum sunscreen!

xo, Brittany